By
muchacha KI first started sewing at the age of 6, by hand. I still have the little red tin that I got for Christmas that year. It had the little tiny spools of thread, and needles in it and my mother taught me how to stitch by hand. For the next 20 years, every time I had to sew something--be it sewing on a button, or hand stitching a flamenco skirt—I did it all by hand.
My mother, ever the instigator, was also the one that bought me my first sewing machine. At age 26, I eagerly sat, and watched the instructional video, from start to finish. My first projects were a sheep costume and a little Bo Peep costume, for me and my boyfriend at the time. I was the sheep…do with that what you will, but after feeling the speed and the power of machine sewing, I couldn’t believe I had never, ever used a machine before. What had I been thinking all those years? Making hats, and shirts, and pillows and failed fashion experiments by hand when I could have been cranking out project after project. After that, I joked that I would have made a perfect wife…back in 1812. You know, when middle and upper middle class girls were expected to learn piano, French and embroidery to try to nab a good husband? With all of those old, dead skills I’d have been quite a catch!
But, as I’ve spent the seven years since then stitching by machine, I have learned something. Hand sewing can achieve some results that machine sewing cannot…and GOOD handsewing is a unique and magical skill in the age of machines. So my skill in meticulous handsewing, long ignored, inspired me to pick up a book called Couture Sewing Techniques, by Claire B. Shaeffer. It’s the perfect book for those of us with an underutilized skill in handsewing, for those who would like to take their sewing to new artistic levels, for all self-proclaimed sewing geeks, and…for anyone who ever wondered why an haute couture garment is worth $50,000.
It discusses the history of couture sewing, the historical context of couture sewing, as well as the essentially ancient techniques couturiers use to achieve their garments. It is detailed, but easy to read…and the photographs of couture garments, from both inside and out, are inspiring. The book does not offer specific projects, but rather offers techniques for specific types of needs, such as anatomy and techniques of sleeve-making, or how to sew proper darts. The detail is what I love here…there are descriptions of specific types of hand-stitches and when to use them…when to draw your thread through beeswax prior to stitching and when not…the process of cutting, basting, fitting, stitching and finishing garments…lovely. All of it is just lovely.
Overall, the feeling I came away with, surprisingly, was one of great freedom. Couture sewing is a process of sketching with fabric, and thread in three dimensions, on a form…these techniques allow you to pull away from commercial patterns and see your own shapes emerge as you drape and cut fabric. If you have the time to spend, and the patience to let a project evolve over time, definitely pick up a copy of this book…personally, I'm still re-reading chapters…
(Photo of Christian Dior by Bellini, Archives Christian Dior, borrowed from http://designmuseum.org)
As I vegan, I don’t eat, wear, or use anything that contains animal products. This isn’t always easy when it comes to bookbinding, since traditional materials include hide glue, leather, silk, beeswax, and bone. I enjoy the challenge of finding cruelty-free alternatives, and none of the books for sale in my etsy shop contain any animal products! I also strive to use eco-friendly and archival materials whenever possible.
Looking for some brilliant and unique gifts this holiday season? Look no further than items made by Boston Handmade members! Here is a selection of handmade brilliance by:
Join BH this Saturday at the JP Holiday Fair from 11am to 5pm.
I've been working like crazy these past few months in preparation for my favorite holiday...Christmas! I've got snow girls and jugglers and fairies and animal ornaments and even Santa riding a dino!
Along with Boston Handmade Marketplace Downtown in Boston, our members are quite busy this time of year.
This weekend is the JP Holiday Fair, Saturday, December 6th, First Church in Jamaica Plain, 6 Eliot St, Jamaica Plain, MA 02130, 11am-5pm
nancyrosetta jewelry and Breton Bleu Studio will be showing their work at this Annual Shopping Spree in Walpole, MA.
Bazaar Bizarre in Boston at the Castle • Sunday December 7, 2008
StoneHouse Studio will be at Design Hive, an Indie Art Market in Cambridge, MA
Tactile Baby shows her work at the Eliot School Craft Fair
This Sunday December 7th is the seventh annual Celebrate Newton juried craft show from 10 AM- 4 PM at the Newton South High School. The show includes over 50 artists and crafters who will be selling wonderful selections of fine art, wearables, pottery & glass, jewelry, and other great crafts. There will also be live music, a lunch cafe, and raffle. THE HOLE THING will be selling their felted wool clothing and housewares and accessories for the 2nd year. Join us for this holiday shopping extravaganza and buy handmade!
